Brixton Review: Three Little Birds

Written by on November 26, 2015 in Food, Reviews - 5 Comments

Three Little Birds drinks

By Mark Muldoon

Brixton is fast becoming the hot place where your – shall we say – higher class of reality TV star chooses to open up their new restaurant venture. Following on from Masterchef winner Tim Anderson opening Nanban on Coldharbour Lane, we now have – just a few doors down – this year’s (sadly now ejected) The Apprentice contestant April Jackson opening the intriguing Jamaican fusion restaurant Three Little Birds. It makes you excited for what could be around the corner: maybe that Maitre d’H from First Dates is set to open his tapas restaurant opposite the Jamm any day now? Be rest assured: we’ll be first in line if he does.

Three Little Birds enters into a Brixton rapidly filling with chain restaurants, and particularly split by the arrival of Caribbean chain Turtle Bay last month, with some enjoying their western take on Caribbean food, but others finding it inauthentic and therefore, insulting. Whilst opinion has certainly been split on the food, the reaction to the actual company has been less ‘firmly divided’, more ‘universally slammed’, for several excellent reasons detailed elsewhere. Any company that photoshops its customers to look like Rastafarians and charges its waiting staff to wait tables is surely deserving questions being asked of it, but maybe there’s an idea that could catch on here. Tomorrow morning, why not try charging the number 59 bus to take you to work? Or maybe demand your mother gives you £200 for the affection she’s been showing you all these years?

Three Little Birds, then, has a potential to define itself in opposition: to be the plucky independent Brixton newcomer that manages to serve Caribbean food, whilst simultaneously managing to not insult its heritage.

Cocktails first: the menu has been put together by the former bar manager of Aqua at the Shard, Vital Petiot, which sounds impressive – perhaps because it’s got the word Shard in it – until you remember how underwhelmed critics were by that place when it opened in 2013. Still, the Fruit Punch interpretation is classy and moreish – you could happily spend an evening just drinking these. It quickly feels like you might be better off doing so too, as the ‘Redemption Song’ promises “a perfect drink to open the appetite before a meal”, but just tastes a bit like when the lemonade syrup has run out and you’re too polite to tell bar staff you’re basically drinking slightly sweetened carbonated water. Still, the ‘I Shot The Sheriff’ pulls things back: a daiquiri with a strong aloe vera punch and a huge head of foam is faultless.

I’m asked how I’d like my Jamrock burger cooked. It’s followed by huge amounts of confusion, as our waiting staff had never heard the phrase ‘medium rare’ before. We’ll happily gloss over how this feels like a taxi driver not knowing what a traffic light is, as the resulting jerk burger was the star of the show, a slim (you’ll be wanting to order sides) but brilliant collection of flavours. Also great: the chicken arrives in a chaotic flavour mix of honey, ginger, scotch bonnet and spring onion. The rest of what we sample however appears to represent solid efforts that are difficult to get particularly excited about: namely the chickpea curry bammy, saltfish fritter and the curry goat.

Three Little Birds goat

A harsh cynic might suggest that the launch of Three Little Birds has been rushed in order to fall within the timeframe of its founder appearing on a prime time BBC TV show. The (fantastic, otherwise) interior and the available menu both have a slight ‘let’s just get open and polish things up properly further down the line’ feel to them. Still, in the middle of a flood of chain restaurant openings in Brixton, anybody seeking cover will find some decent shelter on offer here.

Mark Muldoon tweets and Instagrams all the fun Brixton – and London in general – stuff here and here  respectively.

About the Author

Miss South is Food Editor for the Brixton Blog and Bugle. She blogs at northsouthfood.com and can be contacted at food@brixtonblog.com or Twitter @northsouthfood. If she isn't thinking about what to have for dinner or buying something in Brixton market she doesn't recognise but might deep fry anyway, she'll email you back as soon as possible...

5 Comments on "Brixton Review: Three Little Birds"

  1. tasty food March 21, 2016 at 5:36 pm ·

    I visit day-to-day a few blogs and websites to
    read posts, except this webpage presents feature based articles.

  2. Daphne January 28, 2016 at 3:45 am ·

    Three Little Birds is not gonna last in Brixton, and mainly for one simple reason: the prices are INSANE.
    And I mean Mayfair-insane. This, however, is Brixton 🙂

    The interior looks a bit too planned by somebody who is into interior design on instagram rather than an actual restaurateur, and this is also radiated by the menu: Fancy sounding dishes and concoctions, dilettantic execution and a certain level of arrogance make this place rather uncomfortable.

  3. Sam January 17, 2016 at 9:43 pm ·

    Hi we tried to go here last week we found it unfriendly and felt uncomfortable so left. Worth noting that it is not child criendly. We went back to our favourite Jamaican in Brixton to Fish wings and tings who could not have been more child friendly we love it there the food the staff everything!

  4. Dalton December 26, 2015 at 11:19 am ·

    Visited The Three little birds on more than one occasion (really wanted to likely it) and basically quite a letdown, inexperienced staff, over priced food and not a very warm welcome from the proprietor herself. Place lacks atmosphere and overall, an underwhelming experience.

    • Sam January 17, 2016 at 9:44 pm ·

      Agree not welcoming at all

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